Greg’s view from the water
You’ll know that feeling of being so stoked after catching the perfect wave, when everything aligns perfectly and you manage to pull off that manoeuvre that you’ve been trying for weeks and weeks. For me as a photographer shooting from the water, I get that same feeling of stoke when a photograph lines up exactly how I wanted it to. My buddy is driving down the line; I swim to get into the right place. Just as they put in a hard turn, spray exploding from the lip of the wave, I’m right there with them pressing down on the shutter to capture the moment. After they pass we both look back, hooting and hollering. It’s not as easy as it may seem for that situation to align, just like with riding the perfect wave. But when it happens it’s glorious, and they’re the moments that make a trip.
“ The highlight of this trip for me was being able to take the guys to surf good quality point breaks, often with just us out, and realising that everyone was having the waves of their lives ” Nick Healey