Before foils started lifting us out of the water, this is how we used to exploit the most meagre offerings of the ocean. Casper finds a trim line on his 14’0 Maliko against the looming backdrop of the West Maui Volcano. Riding big boards in tiny swells takes the same concentration as riding small boards in huge swells; unlike the middle ground of recreational surfing where you have enough speed and space to cheat your way around sections, if your line is not precise, both very tiny and very large waves will not let you pass.
PADDLER Casper Steinfath
PHOTO Frankie Bees